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WILL HAIR EXTENSIONS DAMAGE MY HAIR?

Hair Extensions are an easy and great way to add more length, volume and style to your locks.

As hair extensions professionals and educators we are often asked “will hair extensions damage my natural hair? In this article we will explore this question by reviewing the factors that may lead to hair damage.

1. Application methods

• Beaded or ring based installations; Nano Ring /Beads I-tip, Euro Rings / Beads and Braid less or Seamless Micro Weft.

Best used for medium to medium thick hair

These methods may cause damage if the beads or ring are made out of hard metal. The best beads to use is a soft copper base with a silicone insert to protect your natural hair. As well, a soft bead makes it possible to easily open beads or ring to remove or do maintenance. A 1:1 ratio rule should be applied to all bead or ring extension methods, meaning equal amounts of hair to extensions. Often clients and technicians choose to put more extension hair than natural hair in a bead or ring. Doing so will cause damage, especially with compromised natural hair. These methods would be considered to have minimal to no damage.

• Tape methods such as, Tape ins, Wigs, Top piece and Tupees’.

Best used for thin to medium thin hair
These methods are very straightforward and the least complicated of the extensions methods requiring a technician, but require great skill and time to maintain or remove. It is of utmost importance to have the right liquid remover (oil or alcohol base) to neutralize the adhesive to minimize pulling and breakage. In addition, shampoo and conditioner that is designed to remove the excess tape residue from the cuticles of your natural hair should be used. This process is quite arduous and must be conducted with care and patience to prevent damage. Tape methods would be considered to have minimal to some damage.

• Glue methods, like fusions with keratin based hard glues, or soft white or black hair glue.

Best used for strong healthy hair

As with the Tape in method of installation, glue methods are straightforward and should also follow the 1:1 extension to hair rule. When removing extensions installed with glue the right products, tools and patience will be paramount in eliminating damage. These methods should be considered to have some damage associated with removal.

• Braided ,Twist, Crochet and Twisted methods.

Best used for un-processed well hydrated hair

These are methods that all require complex and similar skill sets to install. In addition to taking the same precautions as other installation methods, tension is the singularly most important issue to be aware of with braided, twist, crochet and twisted installation methods, while maintaining the 1:1 rule of installation.

Overly tensioned or too tightly placed installation will cause tension alopecia over time that can lead to permanent hair loss. This can be 100% eliminated if the technician only applies minimal tension. These methods would be considered to have minimal to no damage.

2. Condition of your natural hair

The following 8 challenges are important to be aware of, or improve, before considering any new hair styles or treatment. Please discuss your hair history with your extension technician during your consultation in order to resolve the following, and to select the best hair extension method for you.

1. Hair Porosity
2. Split ends
3. Over processed chemical damaged hair
4. Heat Damage
5. Sun Damage
6. Water Damage
7. Over-stressed / Tension damage
8. Styling and daily care

3.Maintenance

It is important and positively beneficial to the health of your hair, and your bank account, for you maintain a regular and timely maintenance schedule. An inconsistent maintenance schedule will lead to tangles, ill fitting extensions, breakage, a short life span of your installation and unsightly looking hair. The following are best practice guidelines to adopt with respect to frequency of maintenance but they can be shorter depending on lifestyle and a fast hair growth cycle.

• Beaded or ring based installations will require maintenance every 4 to 6 weeks Beaded or ring base installations. This includes Nano Ring /Beads I-tip, Euro Rings / Beads and Braid less or Seamless Micro Weft
• Glue and tape methods will require maintenance every, 1 to 2 weeks for scalp to tape/glue install and 6 to 8 weeks for hair to tape/glue install. Tape methods such as, Tape ins, Wigs, Top piece and Tupee’s. Glue methods like, fusions with keratin based hard glues or soft white or black hair glue.

The following methods will require removal and reinstallation in 8 to 10 weeks. these methods are, Braided, Twist, Crochet and Twisted methods

In conclusion, as educators in the industry, we want to stress that if your extensions are not properly installed, cared for, maintained or removed on a timely schedule, they will cause damage like any other hair style or treatment.

Additionally, there are some methods involving tape or glue that are a challenge to remove and can cause damage regardless of the skill of the technician. These methods are best used for clients with very strong and healthy hair. It is important to keep your natural hair, hair extensions and scalp hydrated.

In addition it is important to maintain a good diet and to handle extensions and hair with care by keeping to a minimum any heat styling and use of harsh products such as dry shampoo, gels, hair sprays and alcohol based products.

Most importantly find a skilled technician who can provide you with informed options on the method that best suits your hair type, cut, length, challenges, style aspiration and lifestyle.

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